You can get the current widget state with GtkStateType. You can retrieve information about the default colors of the text for the state from the GtkTreeView's style at GTK_WIDGET(treeview)->style. This is a GtkStyle object.
As for the font, the style structure includes a PangoFontDescription member called font_desc. You can get information about the font such as style, size, and family from the font description. From this information, you can set the Cairo font. Check out: http://developer.gnome.org/doc/API/2.0/ ... Fonts.html